
America gets a bad rap abroad.
Speaking as a semi-ex-pat who visits the big cities in the United States frequently but has lived in Israel for over 30 years and seldom has occasion to be in the smaller towns and rural areas of America, I was in for a big surprise when I ventured out of California and into Nevada and Utah in September.
First, if you’re sitting in a big city in the United States and have little contact with anyone who doesn’t sit in a similar place, you may not even know that elsewhere in the world you’re thought to have questionable values, unruly children (if you have children), little or no knowledge about anything outside your city limits and to be clueless about any of your above traits.
Okay, now, I have good friends living in the big cities of America so I know that not all of the above is true of everyone geographically near you but I have to admit to basically accepting much of that criticism for many people in your situation.
I recently went to a family wedding in Oakland and stayed in Berkeley, one of my favorite university towns, for Labor Day weekend. One of my favorite university towns only because I don’t have to live there. I used to live there in ancient times (ps it hasn’t changed much) but left Northern California when I tired of trying to get re-acquainted with my friends every month as they totally shed one persona for another.
Late Monday night I flew to Las Vegas, my planned jumping off point to go hiking in the canyons of Utah, Bryce Canyon and Zion Canyon.
Las Vegas. I had thought I might enjoy a little gambling – the glitz and sparkle of the man-made wonders of the world; The Venetian Hotel, The Luxor Hotel (complete with pyramids) – and had planned my trip to come back to Las Vegas for all that on the weekend. But while walking through the lobby (read: casino) to get to the hotel registration desk I began to hear a loud whisper in my ear warning of my mistake.
It went something like this:
OMG! Cigarette smoking is allowed here? And what’s with all these sleazy people who look like miserable zombies? Yikes!
Followed by:
Is this another “old person” reaction? Have I totally lost my sense of fun? Hmmm. Doesn’t look like anyone’s actually having fun.
Up bright and early to make my getaway. More or less made a beeline for the parking lot through all those not-so-happy-time gamblers. There were many more of them at 8 a.m. than there had been at 2 a.m. but they still didn’t look very happy. I noticed when grabbing some breakfast that plenty of them had children in tow so I guess they don’t think of Las Vegas with its gambling and, ahem, other sports, as sleazy or shameful.
Personally, it all seemed like America at its worst to me…or at least not a very pretty side of glory, glory hallelujah. But this blog post really isn’t a rant about Las Vegas.
The drive to Zion Canyon put me immediately in a different frame of mind. As soon as I broke free of the construction-entangled highways of Las Vegas I found myself breathing easier and more deeply.
Crusing down a ribbon of highway, I was surrounded on all sides by open, rolling desert savannah with mountains in the distance to my right and to my left.
It went on for miles and miles getting more and more beautiful as I traveled further away from the city. I’m a big fan of the desert in all its many variations and soon was singing along with the golden oldies radio station.
By the time I pulled in at The Dream Catcher’s Inn just outside of Zion Canyon the world seemed like a kinder place. One of the owners suggested that even though the sun would be setting in another hour or so, it would be a good idea to go on the Park shuttle to get an overall idea of a plan for the next day. So off I went.
In the parking lot of the park before getting on the shuttle I ran into a young couple who asked that I take their picture together with the gorgeous mountains in the background. After I’d taken a couple of photos and they’d checked to make sure the pictures were okay (he told me that she’s sensitive about her (miniscule) thighs. Sigh) he enthusiastically told me that they’d gotten engaged 20 minutes ago and I was the first to know. We chatted about their news and my own 37 year marriage for a bit. I wished them a good life as we parted. Nice kids.
The Shuttle was one example of the U.S. national parks’ exemplary organization for handling large numbers of people in the most efficient and ecologically sound ways. At every stop along the way there are (clean!) bathrooms and spigots to fill water bottles so that people only carry in one plastic bottle and no tissues or toilet paper.
The sunset over The Court of the Patriarchs (three peaks names Abraham, Isaac and Jacob) was peaceful and pretty. The ringtail cat sighting was exciting (they’re rare). Laying on a low-lying wall at one of the stops and gazing up at the spectacular night time sky, as suggested by the shuttle driver, was wonderful (I didn’t want to head back but was afraid I’d miss the last shuttle back to town).
But even though every time I thought I couldn’t possibly see anything more gorgeous than the last amazing, breathtaking sight, I came around the bend to see something even more mind-bogglingly beautiful, this blog post isn’t about God’s handiwork (He so outclasses anything Humankind has come up with so far).
“So what the Sam Hill is this blog post about?” I can hear you asking. (you may have substituted another word for ‘Sam Hill’.)
It’s about America. It’s about Americans. It’s about major misconceptions about both.
I was travelling, hiking, horseback riding alone. 
There are some really great things about doing all that with other people – especially people you love and find interesting. But there are also some really great things about going it alone.
For me, anyway, I find that I think more and I talk to strangers more when I’m alone. And, usually, first I think more and then I talk to strangers more so the conversation can be simple, “how ya’ doin’; where ya’ been; where ya’ from; where ya’ goin’ next” conversation but it can also be “I’ve been thinking about how people must’ve lived and felt back when this area was pretty much unpopulated. What do you think they were like?”
And then there’s alot more just plain eavesdropping on other people’s conversations. Something to keep in mind when you see someone sitting alone who looks like she’s reading a book.
And that’s what this blog post is about. The wholesome people who visit and live in the Western States of the US of A.
The teenagers who actually speak to older people and actually listen to them with respect. 
The waitress in Hurricane,Utah, who works to pay for the upkeep of her horses and the couple in Springdale who spoke to me about past vacations – all hiking, camping or skiing with their entire family – and the mountain marathon runner from Southern Utah University
who chatted with me in Dixie National Park while she waited for her teammate to show up and pass her the baton. She mostly spoke about her college organization’s volunteer activities for children with special needs and her upcoming wedding.
In Bryce I spoke with an elderly couple from Minnesota
as they rested on a bench along the sunrise hike trail. They were with a group of 12 retired couples, all with recreational vehicles, who were travelling together across the United States. As we talked, another couple in their group came along and we all shared hiking experiences in between long minutes of companionable silence.
At Hoover Dam a woman from South Carolina struck up a conversation with me about the ingenuity and work ethic that went into the Dam Project.
Later, over coffee, she told me about the two children from Guatemala she had adopted when they were 3 and 5 and how proud she was to be at her younger son’s college graduation in June. She showed me pictures of them with her hiking in the mountains near their home. I traveled in Guatemala a few years back and she pondered the wisdom of, perhaps, making a trip there with them. None of them had been back since she brought them to the plane upon adoption.
There were many others who made me proud to be an American and gave me renewed hope for the future of the land of my birth.
It’s true that many of the conversations made me sad for an America whose economy is not only bad but unimproving and sadder about the resulting disappearance of the optimism which typified my youth and university days. Several people spoke of losing their jobs and securing a new position more than a year later…at a lower salary. A few mentioned that our children’s generation is the first to have no hope for a better life than that of their parents…or even equally good.
As an Israeli I nurtured an inward smile at the disillusionment with President Obama which I heard over and over again from Democrats, Republicans, those who voted for him and those who voted against. But as an American I despaired together with them in the reasons for their disillusionment – the high rate of unemployment, family businesses closing down, a “new” health plan which leaves so many worse off than before. (I continue to be shocked how many Americans make significant life decisions based on where they can find the best health care coverage.)
If you’re old enough to remember, there was a human interest show of heartwarming and nostalgic vignettes about simple Americans on CBS news in the olden days. It featured Charles Kuralt and lasted for a quarter of a century, airing for the last time in 1992, just five years before Kuralt died in 1997 from complications of lupus at the age of 62. The popularity of the show surprised the decision-makers at CBS and even Kuralt himself.
I met some people worthy of a couple of minutes of Mr. Kuralt’s time on my recent wanderings and it’s a great feeling knowing that so many of them are still out there almost 20 years after Kuralt closed up shop.
Might I dare to hope that they make up the majority of Americans?





