Thursday is one of my favorite days of the week.
When I open my eyes on Thursdays as 6 a.m. approaches, my body decides for me whether or not to head out on my usual hour walk through the misty valley and up the little mountain near my house. Lately I’ve been trying to remember to say the morning blessing of gratitude for waking up to another day and sometimes that 30 seconds is just enough to fight off the temptation to close my eyes and roll over again into that blissful morning slumber.
By 7:15 the house smells like fresh-ground coffee and there’s freshly sliced fruit on the table – the best in the world. My husband is the morning chef, like his father before him and our older son, who’s continuing the tradition.
After our morning schmooze, I’m out of the house by 8:30 to get to my weekly hour and a half yoga class in Jerusalem. After trying yoga about a dozen times in various studios from California to New York to Jerusalem, I’d about given up on it when I happened onto Rachel’s class. Wow! She does a holistic yoga which includes special breathing and stretches which ease my relatively inflexible body into delicious poses.
Most Thursdays I round up our younger son from the beautiful new Supreme Court Building where he’s clerking and we go to the nearby Mahane Yehuda Shuk for lunch.
Rafi lived just 3 blocks from The Shuk for his last two years of law school and acquired a love for The Shuk to rival my own. He and I wander The Shuk, buying a few things but mostly soaking up the sounds and the colors.
The one place we never miss is Oz the fish monger’s basta. Oz is the very quintessence of basterionarim. A grumpy middle-aged Sephardi guy who always has a 3-day growth of dark beard and a scowl on his face. Despite the demeanor, now that I’ve been buying fresh fish there once or twice every week for a year, he hurls endearments my way instead of insults.
“Where’ve you been, Mami,” he shouts when I’ve been out of the country for a few weeks. Or “I’ve been saving two of my most beautiful trout for you, Metuka Sheli.” (my sweet one)…and he has.
Further on is “my” spice man. The smells and colors…nothing compares. I often wonder how he supports his family selling 100 grams of mustard seeds and 200 grams of cardamon. But there he’s been for the past 30 years I’ve been coming to The Shuk. And like most of the basterionarim at The Shuk, he probaby inherited the basta from his father.
Most of the basterionarim in The Shuk have little education. Many of them did not complete high school. Alot of them are rich. Their day begins before dawn and they work hard all day. They’re as honest as the day is long (maybe a tad less honest with tourists). You can trust their word. They’re good to their clients…though they probably don’t call it customer relations. Oz isn’t the only one who “saves” his best produce for his preferred customers. Sometimes they tell shoppers they’re out of something only to pull that same something out of the back room for their regular clients.
My husband markets fruit to wholesalers, some of whom also have bastas at The Shuk. We’ve gotten to know many of them very well and are invited to their family simchas (family events). Often there are tables and tables of just men…basterionarim. Their wives aren’t encouraged to go out alot but if they do come along they’re always amazing to look at. Dressed like celebs with the kind of high heels it’s suicidal to fall off of. Danskos are so much more comfortable but, oh!, those high heels are to die for.
One basta I frequent for vegetables is owned by an Arab man who is a 2nd generation basta owner. His son works alongside him every now and then – but rarely. We talked about it one day and he sounded a little bitter. He said that he’s not willing for his son to live the life he lives. In spite of his wealth, he said that he regrets not having an education, and is determined that his son (who loves The Shuk) will go to university and do something else with his life.
I get that. It’s a hard life. I’m happy that Rafi is clerking at The Supreme Court instead of getting up at 3 a.m. to stack fruit, dealing with thousands of people a day who want everything a little bit cheaper and falling into bed exhausted at the end of another 15 hours of physical labor.
But The Shuk is still one of the things that make Thursdays one of my favorite days of the week.
What a variety of colors , shapes, smells and sounds! What a variety of humanity passes me by as I wander! What an abundance of the blessings we find here on earth!
“Halva – al ha-sakin!” (halva slices cut fresh) “Agvania b’shekel!” (only one shekel for a kilo of tomatoes)
If I’m given my choice of the top ten places I want to be mindfully in the here and now, Mahane Yehuda is definitely on the list.



